Namibia : Journey of diamonds and dust part 2

The Journey continues with Sarah and I self driving Namibia..a dream trip with a beautiful friend.

Day 8 Spitzkoppe

We drove to Spitzkoppe cabin camp it was incredibly hot, and we were in tent cabins with no air conditioning. We walked around camp admiring the “Matterhorn of Namibia” right at our cabin tent doors which was stunning to see. We decided against doing the Rock arch hike as it’s been photographed repeatedly so we relaxed, chatted and waited for afternoon to cool down and took moon photographs while we waited for the milky way to arrive.

It was a creepy place I had a feeling we were being watched the whole time- you know the feeling of someone breathing down your neck. It is an ancient rock formation I researched the history later as I just felt intense energy there. It holds geological and cultural importance formed by ancient volcanic activity millions of years ago. It was also a trading post and farm during German colonisation times. I didn’t feel unsafe or scared I just I feel things and energies and I felt watched and a heavy energy around. - something happened there big I could just feel it.

The camp toilets were outside- so lots of critters! The crickets in Namibia are the size of my hand flocked to the light. So about 2am I decide on a bathroom break which was quite a while away from our tent cabins. I got rid of the crickets off the toilet and bathroom walls and as I was about to close the door, I hear this strange scraping sound from behind the cubicle. I had my tripod I thought I could use as a weapon. I call out “hello”. No answer -I am thinking oh no it’s a wild animal.

I call again. This time I hear crying and loud banging scraping -it is a girl crying. I am freaked out at this point- the scary vibe of the place and now a girl sobbing. I ask “are you ok do you need anything?” Being so isolated and the horrible scraping I had no idea if she was being hurt, if I was going to be hurt next and if Sarah was safe. So I, start screaming out to Sarah. She’s fine and I screamed back there is a girl crying she won’t answer me, and I high tailed it back to Sarah near our cabins and we watched and waited. By now I had calmed but I kept thinking of the Gabby Petito case and worried for this girl. She came out and went back to her cabin in tears. Figuring maybe she didn’t speak English. Her and her partner left the next day super early and I still wonder if that girl is ok.

We did astro that night unfortunately some guy with a torch all night decided to light paint the rock formations. I called out, Sarah called out for him to stop but he didn’t. It was so frustrating and it destroyed most of my photos.

We both woke randomly early at 5am to crickets!!!! in our beds!!! yep one on Sarah in her cabin and in my cabin one was on my head board eek.

I was glad to leave there although photography wise it was stellar apart from the guy with the torch. I would go back because I love experiences and i would love to shoot astro there properly.

Day 9 Erongo mountains

Ai Aiba Rock Painting Lodge In the Erongo Mountains was just beautiful and needed after the Spitzkoppe camp. I loved that during this trip we had the chance to do camping, hotels, BnBS and the lodges. For totally different experiences.

We did a beautiful Bushman and San Rock art and sunset nature drive. We saw some of the 200 ancient rock art sites. The rock art is thought to be 2000 to 3500 years old ( prehistoric) made by the San people and related to San Shamanism. This fascinated me as it a spiritual practice of healing that involves altered state of consciousnesses and dancing and healing- As both a dancer and healer myself I found it so interesting. We saw an incredible sunset from the mountains. We were also lucky also to see a Giraffe in this private park and just incredible Namibian landscape.

On return to our cabins it was a freshen up, coffee, dinner and astrophotography but it was too close to full moon. we could clearly see the milkyway arch and it was the first time being from Sydney that I could see it and the sky was just breath taking. I was not too disappointed no great astro this trip, for me seeing full moon in Namibia was enough. I do not plan my shots I like to see what the universe wants to show me or learn. It is intuitive and I just believe that I am a conduit for something greater than myself. I like to shoot that way..no expectations no disappointment just always “wow” and enjoying and zoning in where I am.

Day 10 Swakopmund

We headed on our journey to Fritz manor Swakopmund a gorgeous BnB. We arrived around 4pm and freshened up and headed to the popular Tug for dinner a beautiful restaurant on the pier. The food was amazing as was the view. Make sure to book if you visit and decide to have dinner… Ahhh ocean air.

In Australia we have the most beautiful beaches in the world just a small drive away. For me to go “wow”at an ocean scape takes a lot but I did at Sandwich Harbor.

Swakopmund was a quirky ocean side town with so much to do unfortunately we didn’t have enough time. I am a bit of an adrenaline junkie I grew up on both 2 wheel motor bikes and 4 wheel motor bikes and I have been skydiving and grass skiing but I really wanted to try sand boarding here and drive a 4 wheel motor bike amongst the dunes. Next time i will stay longer and get to do those things.

We were told not to go out at night at Swakopmund so after dinner we went back to our Bed and Breakfast and chatted all night in the dining area.

Day 11 Swakopmund

We woke early for a Sandwich Harbor 4wd the dunes tour I was so excited. We stopped at the Pink Lake at Walvis Bay and took some photos of the beautiful colours of the salt and lake. We were not allowed to stop in certain parts but again “influencers” thinking they are above the rules were in the off-limits areas. This behavior irritated me so much and it got worse over the trip. Sandwich Harbour was incredible I loved it. Maybe it’s the Aussie in me but the ocean feels like home. Here especially is where I got in the zone to shoot from my soul. Dunes for my miles as far as your eyes can see and famously known for the dunes meeting the ocean -it is a spectacular view. The 4-wheel driving over the enormous dunes was an adrenaline inducing amazing experience. My only regret here is I wanted more time. It was epic!

As we were walking back to Temu a young boy with too big sandals and dirty clothes about 6 years old approached us for money or food. We didn’t have any cash left after Damaraland or food, so I had one little toy koala left on our dashboard. I walked over to get it and held it out to him to say it is yours now and the look on his face I will never forget. Complete awe and holding his breath, then the biggest smile I have ever seen by a child with a toy it was like he hadn’t even seen one before. He then held it up over his head and walked away to show his friends around the corner. It melted both our hearts, and I fought back tears for the umpteenth time this trip.

That afternoon I had made a promise to my nephew to find a black Mumba snake. I asked on every safari and they said they were there somewhere hiding. Sarah and I decided to go to The Living Desert Snake Park to see a black Mumba and get my photos for my nephew. I loved seeing the most dangerous snakes in Africa all types of cobras and Mumba.

Tug again for dinner and Sarah and I went back to Fritz and chatted in the outdoor dining area or hours again.

Day 12 Sossusvlei

Sossusvlei camping to go. On our drive to Sossusvlei we did the tourist thing and stopped in Solitaire for the famous apple pie. Solitaire was cute but this where my nerves started to fray against the “ influencers”. I was shooting the below pic getting the angle kneeling on the dirt and this woman says stop we are taking ours first jumped in front of my camera and got their selfie shots. Before I could even say what are you doing? I was here first. This was the attitude of so many. My eye rolls turned into having to bite my tongue in complete frustration and disappointment at the lack of respect for people and place. I am telling these stories so people out there can see how bad it is getting out there. That locations need protecting and a return to soulful travel that respects the land and culture of a place, following rules, leaving no trace and being respectful to all people and fellow travellors.

On the way to Solitaire we stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn sign on the C14 road -the southern most circle of latitude. It was an easy veer off the road blink and you miss it spot but very cool to stop and see whilst stretching our legs. The drives are very long.

Day 13 Sossusvlei

We headed to Namib Desert camping to go time to see Deadvlei. We decided on a bus to get us in there as we were worried Temu our Jimny wouldn’t make it -she did struggle, and we didn’t want to miss our window to see it. We arrived as did hundreds of other cars lined up for miles. The bus was the better option we got in quicker at sunrise but not a great option for time to photograph. We saw Dune 45 and Big Daddy it was being climbed and couldn’t get decent shots,

In Deadvlei it was so busy. My heart broke seeing girls in bikinis were posing for their social media with their teams, people climbing the ancient camel thorn trees with some broken on the ground, security having to protect the trees and get people off -I was furious.

It was a stunning place, but I felt so let down by people- they were also climbing the dunes although locals were upset with tourists doing that. Sarah and I had agreed ethically beforehand we wouldn’t climb the dunes. We got some amazing shots still but did it with respect and dignity.

Deep Heart Earth is about respecting places, people, land and cultures and one day I hope to use this to raise awareness and money for charities . To give back to the lands and protect where I visit. It is my dream to help- a place of soul- a place of like minded people.

The ancient camel thorn trees ( 600-900 years old) were beautiful amongst the white clay pan- mummified by the environment and I loved the dust and sand twisters. I even got to capture one. I do love being in the thick of things and crazy whether. I wish we had more time here and way less people.

That night was star Dune Star camp. We had a tour to our cabins through the desert, and I loved this place. Only 9 cabins in the middle of the desert. We got to see full moon here and it was just one of the most magical experiences. We watched and shot full moon rise and had dinner with our other cabin guests and it was followed by an astronomy talk by our guide David. We then went to our separate cabins, and we wheeled our beds onto the veranda of the cabin to sleep under the full moon and stars in the desert. Just one of my favourite nights ever under the stars and night sky – Dune Star camp now and Everest base camp. To wake with the bright full moon on your face in the Namib desert at 2am and roll over smiling and falling back sleep was incredible. A place I want to go back to.

Day 14 Kalahari

We drove to the Kalahari here we packed and sorted as Sarah was leaving the next day. We had dinner and sat around the Lodges campfire. We just chilled at our tent cabins and then off to drive Sarah to the airport the next day. I would skip this side south of the Kalahari we had no wildlife sightings and landscape photography wise it was just flat bush and do north next time.

Day 15 Airport and Windhoek

Bye to Namibia for Sarah.

We drove to the airport and emotional goodbyes as through this trip we became soul sisters it is so rare to travel with friends with no dramas and just so much fun and understanding and care for each other -we are family. I am so grateful to her for coming on this amazing adventure and we are planning on more. I cried yes, I am a sook, but true friends are rare. We said bye and I drove to Little Forest, retreat a cute BnB where I met a lovely lady Maria who works there, she even cooked me dinner and we chatted and talked all night.

Day 16 Airport

Toni says bye to Namibia

I packed and then I drove into Windhoek to drop Temu off and said goodbye to our trusty car and got a lift to the airport for my 3 flights back to Sydney. Namibia thank you. Thank you for being so welcoming and real and beautiful. I miss you and will be back xx

Thank you to you also once again for the love and support and reading along Namibia was an amazing adventure and there are many more to come.

hope to see you out there shooting.. until next time…

Toni xx

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